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Thread: Lifted Pad off G Point

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    Question Lifted Pad off G Point

    Hi, I'm in the process of installing a wiikey 2 in a D2C Wii. While trying to solder point G per the instructions, I accidentally lifted the pad off the point. Now it seems that it is impossible to see where that point leads to. I assume that it is connected to something that is on another layer of the board. I've read through many posts and found that this is somewhat of a common problem with the point. The solution that I am gathering is that I can just solder right onto the leg of the chip. However, I am unable to find any information from someone who has had the same problem as I have and see if soldering it onto the leg of the chip would solve it. I only wish that I had known about the alt G point that I have been reading about before starting. This seems to be the easier way to go. At this point, is it ok for me to try soldering it to the second leg of the chip from the right or can i try the alt G point? OR should I look into getting a new motherboard? I've incliuded some pictures but they are a little poor in quality. ANy healp would be much appreciated. Thanks!






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    nice pictures, anyway.
    pls be explicit to:
    --mark the G point where u plan to solder on.
    -- mark the other G' points where u think may be alternative

    if my memory is right, G is the clock signal path. several applicable points on the Drive board, perhaps.

    at this point, it's ok for u to solder on the leg as u've mentioned.
    c what comes up.

    Looking at ur 1st picture, the lifted pad consists no PTH (plated-thru-hole). That confirms directly soldering onto the leg of the chip will definitely WORKABLE ! (in fact, my wii did soldered at that point, but i forgot whether it's truely no PTH at there. sorry for my bad memory. ) keep ur fingers cross........

    enjoy !
    Last edited by billyhome; 02-24-2009 at 11:05 PM.

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    from ur pic, it seems pins 3 & 4 has a solder short. am i wrong ? u must be sure abt it.

    u could shorten the 3v3 connection and the GND connection to the "upper" zone. at present, the connections are just toooooo long to the "lower" zone.
    Last edited by billyhome; 02-24-2009 at 11:10 PM.

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    You should just solder the G wire to the IC leg near the point you lifted (follow the trace, believe it's the second IC leg). D2C are less prone to have the eject issue so that should work fine m8. Also, like the previous poster stated, you should use the alternate power and ground points because those wires are WAY too long. Here is a pic of one of my D2C installs:


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    Quote Originally Posted by billyhome View Post
    nice pictures, anyway.
    pls be explicit to:
    --mark the G point where u plan to solder on.
    -- mark the other G' points where u think may be alternative

    if my memory is right, G is the clock signal path. several applicable points on the Drive board, perhaps.

    at this point, it's ok for u to solder on the leg as u've mentioned.
    c what comes up.

    Looking at ur 1st picture, the lifted pad consists no PTH (plated-thru-hole). That confirms directly soldering onto the leg of the chip will definitely WORKABLE ! (in fact, my wii did soldered at that point, but i forgot whether it's truely no PTH at there. sorry for my bad memory. ) keep ur fingers cross........

    enjoy !
    Hi, thanks for the quick response. The spot where I would now solder the g point is on the second IR leg of the chip (basically where the original g point traces to) and my alternate g point would be the one indicated here: How to fix Eject Issue on Wiikey v2 - WiiNewz - Wii modchip & hacking community

    At this point, can I still use the alternate point or do I have to now stick with the leg of the IC chip that connects to the original g point since I've already messed up the point it traces to?

    So what I am gathering is I can still salvage the board even though I lifted the pad of the G point? If I can still manage to solder onto the leg then I feel that there still might be hope then. I think I will try it tonight and get back and post something whether it works or not. Wish me luck.\

    I've read a few posts here that have the same issues, but unfortunately I've never read any of them reply back with whether or not they were able to get it working again after soldering it directly to the IC leg pin.

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    Talking

    Thanks for everyone's input. So I soldered the last G point to the second leg and booted it up. The lights on the mod chip blinked twice in succession and it booted up fine with no weird dvd noises or anthing. SO I've put it all back together, installed the firmware 1.2 for the wiikey 2, installed homebrew channel and now everything seems ok. Hopefully, things will be alright in the future as well. I should also mention that I forgot to shorten the 3.3v and ground wire per the suggestions, but it seems to be fine. I don't know if this could cause trouble for me in the future. Thanks again everyone!

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    mugen, u did a nice job. ur wii will be fine for years ! but, bear in mind, the looooong 3v3 and Gnd wires may be becoming flying angels (loosen), accidently.

    regarding the alternative G points (aimed 4 Eject fix Issue), it's a direct pin soldering, as well. no lift pad issue.

    u've picked the correct output pin of clock signal. keep it!

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    Thanks Billyhome, I gotta say I saw a few videos of people installing their wiikey's on youtube and I find it amazing how they do it without a magnifying glass. I used one and I still found it extremely difficult to do that last point. For the future, I will definately use the alternate points. I also need to find a good place online to order a really fine point soldering iron for any future jobs.

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    get 15~20 watts fine point tip soldering iron. cored 63/37 solder alloy (cored with flux inside), 1 m/m diameter.

    to ease ur "last point" or 'tiny pad" soldering, apply kyvor #30awg pre-tin solid wire for connections. cut to length, tentatively route and fix the wire at place (with dots of instant glue), position wire ends at soldering points (assisted with tweezer & magnify glass),....what an easy job !

    p.s. multi-stranded wires for 3v3 & Gnd points.
    Last edited by billyhome; 02-26-2009 at 08:47 PM.

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  11. #10
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    for those bridged points, hold your soldering iron on it for a few seconds and feed more solder into it until its a small ball
    once you have done that cover it with some flux, get desolder braid hold it over the ball, set your soldering iron over the braid ontop of the solder ball and feed a small bit of solder into it to help flow, press down slightly on it until the solder ball is gone and lift the desolder braid as if you where ripping off a plaster, but slower..

    as for the lifted pad dont worry about that as far as i can see it doesnt lead anywhere, just solder to the alt. g point on the other chip

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