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Thread: Wii Serial Numbers Question

  1. #11
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    Alright just curious due to the post saying practically saying if its serial number is past those, don't get it. I was just curious on how you determine if it's past those or not. If there's no definite way, then thank you very much for all help provided. If there is a way that someone has come up with that the others don't know about it, please lemme know ><.

  2. #12
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    Yea if someone claims to know this sort of thing, it might be better to contact them directly ( exception of coarse being wiihacks staff). This is not common general knowledge of the community.
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  3. #13
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    Alright. When I input my serial into the drive chip database, it says:

    * There is a 50% chance the chipset is GC2-D2C (v1).
    * And there is also a 25% chance the chipset is Combined GC2-D3 with no drive chip.
    * Lastly, a 25% chance the chipset is GC2R-D2A.

    When I input one of the Wii's that seemed to be the oldest, it said:

    * There is a 75% chance the chipset is Combined GC2-D3 with no drive chip.
    * And there is also a 25% chance the chipset is GC2-D2E.

    Mine runs burned game fine. Does that mean that my chipset is a combined GC2-D3 with no drive chip? And if so, does that mean it's a pretty safe bet that this Wii should be able to run burnt once modded?

    What type of chipset am I looking to find/avoid?

    GC2-D2C (v1), GC2-D3 with no drive chip, GC2R-D2A, GC2-D2C2 (v2) and the drive has the new metal clip, GC2-D2E, etc.?
    Last edited by KyleMoher; 06-03-2010 at 08:54 AM. Reason: Additional Question

  4. #14
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    Which of these serials are most likely able to run burnt CDs?

    I found a few used consoles. I'm unsure what chips I should be avoiding/trying to find.

    Here's the database site and serials:
    Wii Drive Chip Database

    LU5460
    LU5719
    LU3463
    LU6120
    LU5179
    LU6557

    Which of those serials is most likely to be able to run burnt games?

  5. #15
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    Europe, or America? If USA, LU3463.

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  7. #16
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    American (Canada), but why do you say 3463?

    According to the site it's

    * There is a 75% chance the chipset is GC2-D2C (v1).
    * And there is also a 25% chance the chipset is GC2-D2C2 (v2) and the drive has the new metal clip.

    Is GC2-D2C what I want?

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    Quote Originally Posted by KyleMoher View Post
    American (Canada), but why do you say 3463?

    According to the site it's

    * There is a 75% chance the chipset is GC2-D2C (v1).
    * And there is also a 25% chance the chipset is GC2-D2C2 (v2) and the drive has the new metal clip.

    Is GC2-D2C what I want?
    How about this: what you don't want is D3-2.

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  10. #18
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    So D3-2 is the only non-burned game playing consoles out there?

  11. #19
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    D3-2 and the D3-S and D4; since you linked the database, why didn't you read it here? Neither of these will play backups (short of a physical drive swapout and the D4 is smaller so can't be a direct swapout). You can USB HD game on them, though...

  12. #20
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    I recommend usb loading anyway. It's way easier and faster to pick games without even having to get off the couch. Plus my kids scratch up games easily. I currently have a wd 320G and I have over a 100 games on it. I also have been putting them on disc to play because I don't have anymore room on my hard drive. So, I would suggest a 1TB hard drive and you can fit as many games you could need. I hope I get a new 2TB hard drive for Father's Day. That would be really cool.

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