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Thread: Wii eject issue...a possible fix

  1. #1
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    Wii eject issue...a possible fix

    Hi, I'll show you a possible fix for the wii eject issue, according to what everybody with this problem is seen, it is due to disk sensor issue, meaning that the disk sensors in the wii are not working and the wii is going trough a loop of activity without sensors. When you press the eject button the wii eject the disk as expected, but it doesn't detect when the disk is out, so it keeps ejecting and then tries to insert the disk, if it doesn't detect a disk inside finishes the loop and hangs, until you power down and up the wii, then it tries again the same process unless it finds a disk with the reading lenses. This is more or less what everybody is seen.
    The sensors are a couple of infrared LEDs paired with a couple of photo transistors, one sensor is responsible for detect the entrance of a disk and the other detects when the disk is inside. I made a schematic obtained by myself on the infrared LEDs' circuit, as you can see both LEDs (and the photo transistors also) are powered by a common 3.3 V that comes from the main board (not from the 3.3V around the fuses of the drive board). The LEDs are activated from pin 79 of the D2x chipset (PA3/IRQ3 line) using a couple of transistors. Basically the issue I detected is that the signal from the chipset is not being generated.
    Now, is important to know if this fix will work for you or not, you will need a multimeter (voltmeter) and have the wii opened to measure a couple of points. In the picture you will find 2 points (A and B). They are near the white strip that connects the drive board to the spindle motor.
    Power up the wii and measure the voltage in A (this is the power supply rail) and verify the circuit is properly powered with 3.3V, if you couldn't find any voltage then something else is wrong and this fix is not for you. Next measure the voltage at B, if you get 0V, there is a good chance the LEDs circuit is working and the problem maybe in the photo transistors (they are located i a small green board in the other side of the drive). If you got 3.3 V, it means your LEDs circuit is not working for various reasons (signal is not coming from d2x, damaged transistors, damaged resistors,etc). now you are lucky because this fix probably will work for you.
    Next what we are going to do is to activate the LEDs' circuit without intervention of the D2x, to do that you just need to short circuit point C to ground (for those who knows a little bit more we are actually short circuiting
    collector - emitter of the transistor, no risk at all of further damage). This will activate the LEDs and will make your eject function to work again. Good thing is that the all circuit is powered down when you shutdown the wii, so your LEDs will not be active permanently. Worst case the life of the LED will be a little reduced, but you must know that the normal life of a LED activated permanently is above 8000 hours, that should be enough to play for a good while, and is not far from the normal life achieved by the actual functioning of the console.

    If you don't have a voltmeter, just try connecting a wire between C and ground, there is no way to damage anything else by doing so, and see if your eject issue is fixed.

    Point A, B and C, refers to the inserted picture, please don't mix with any installation points of any specific modchip.

    Hope some of you find the fix useful.
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  3. #2
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    PERFECT !!!!! OMG thank you soo much. This worked som perfectly You are a geuinies !

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