I'll try to make a nice and orderly post, so other relative noobs to the scene can benefit from my questions too. Most of us will be getting a D2E drive from now on, hopefully not epoxied. I'll list what I think to know first and ask what I don't second. If this thread becomes valuable enough. Someone might sticky it.
1. D2E important information:
For euro zone buyers, there should be no epoxy on it until LEH225 ( don't know this for US buyers).
cut pins are no issue on this chipset. They were only an issue on ..Cut pins were only an issue with d2b before transistioning to d2c (with thanks to Spyman)
Current 3.3 firmware will pose no problems either. It would be wise to hold off updates though. Just until expert users comfirm it is safe. Expect Wasabi to update the firmware in event of new countermeasures from Nintendo.
2. Wasabi v3 + Wii clip V5B important information
There is no need to solder to the Wii drive's PCB any longer. Connect F to Q on the Wii clip itself.
Do jumpers need to be set/connected? You need to set jumper 1 for ntsc-usa , jumper 2 for pal or jumper 1 and 2 for jap I believe (thanks to Spyman)
3. Burning your games
Use DVD-R media. Word goes that + media stress the laser because it requires a higher voltage to read them.
Use a good brand. I'll be going with Verbatim.
Burning speed? Some say: burn at the media's minimum required speed, others say: burn as slow as your burner will allow it.
Optimal burning speed should be 4x (thanks to Spyman)
Software modders needed to fiddle with the ISO's at some point to get it running. I've read that even for them now, this is not longer true. There was also a tool which allowed you to check this. And if the iso had been adjusted, would allow you to correct this before burning. can anyone name this tool? + what do we have to look for? These old ISO's could turn up here and there making you waste loads of discs and wondering what you are doing wrong
Use imgburn to burn the ISO's. Nero is reported working as well. Make a working disc with one of these first, thereafter you can switch to your favorite burning software and see whether it does the trick.
anything important I still need to add?
Now I've been noting ' a lot' (mostly people with issues post, I do not know how many didn't have any issues at all) people having disc spin up faillures when having the Wasabi clipped on. Is this an unsorted error or coincidence? The modders will surely know this as they have modded dozens of D2e's:-).
Lastly, any more issues to date?
Cheers,
Jeroen
Last edited by Jeroen1000; 11-14-2008 at 02:35 AM.
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1.
So far for Canada and US wiis the epoxy is not yet in circulation unless coming back from repair.
Cut pins were only an issue with d2b before transistioning to d2c
2.
You need to set jumper 1 for ntsc-usa , jumper 2 for pal or jumper 1 and 2 for jap I believe.
3.
Optimum burning speed is 4x
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I have a new Wii (C2E) (European, PAL). I installed the Wasabi v3 with a Wii clip V5B on my Wii (I just soldered the each pad and set the jumper for PAL). When i start the Wii the green light turn on. In case of using a original DVD everything works fine, however, in a case of using a backup DVD the Wii spin on but it can not read the DVD-R. After soldering F to Q and restart the Wii, the red LED was on the whole time and the Wii didn't spin on when i tried to put a DVD in.
So there is the question. Do I have to solder F to Q? Or is the first setting right without any additional wire?
I appreciate any help and advice!!!
Well, I'm a beginner too but I'll try to be of some use asking questions so the pro's can help you out
Is your chipset D2E (you typed C2E, and I hope for you this is incorrect as it then may be a new chipset)?
I've ordered my wii chip, which unfortunately hasn't arrived yet. However, I asked them to pre solder F to Q on the clip itself so you have done the right thing.
You should also check for bend pins inside the wii clip and make sure it is securely fastened. That all I can do for you I'm afraid. You could also make some pictures in advance for when the pro's ask you to.
Oh yes, and you might reburn the game you tried. Which settings did you use? Which DVD's?
Hi!
Sorry.. its a D2E chipset..
But i was wondering, why the Wasabi chip show a green light without soldering F to Q and show a red light with the bridge between F and Q.. The pins of the clip seems to be good.
I read something about a Wii version 3.3 and 3.4. Do you have any idea about that?
After i put the Wii Fit DVD in, it showed that it is updating the system. I have no idea, but i guess i have now 3.4 (what ever it is). Maybe the chipmod doesn't work with the update?
I wasn't aware Nintendo put out a new update. I'll google for some info when I've got a little more time. But as you already have guessed, this could be the issue for you.
The problem is your chip has to be clipped to the Wii before you can update it (unless I'm dead wrong). Normally (well this doesn't do you any good now) you should wait before updating the Wii until there is confirmation the new update does not interfere with the chip. If it would interfere, Wasabi should release an update, which you would have to apply before updating the Wii.
I would recommend opening a new topic for this. Do include all the information you have told me. The cause of your problem may very well have nothing to do with the Wii update.
An idea popped to mind: there are FAKE wii-clips in circulation. Please check whether yours is authentic! I must admit this is a long shot but one can know what is going on, eliminating each potential problem
i have the same problem as WiiBeginner.
I got my Wii-Clip V5b today and solder it with my Wasabi V3 D2E comp. Chip.
The Clip is nit a Fake, it have a serial no. and the Hollograph inside.
My Wii is a European PAL with D2E Drive and FW 3.3E.
1st Try:
Soldering all pads like Presolder from seller, no F-Q or F-F Wire.
The LED is still green, original Disk were accepted, Backups not.
Solder Pads-1 for PAL
2nd Try:
Soldering F-Q with Wire.
The LED is still red, the Drive dont work.
3rd Try:
I read in another Forum, when F-Q is wired, the CLK must be unsolder (disconected)
The LED is goes for a few second red and than green. I thougt that was it but no.
Original Disk were accepted, Backups not.
4th Try:
I coneccted the Clk from wasabi to clip, F-Q still wired.
The LED is still red, the Drive dont work.
5th Try:
I coneccted the Clk from wasabi to clip with a 12 inch wire, F-Q still wired.
The LED is still red, the Drive dont work.
That were all my tries and now i think must give up if nobody can help to solve the problem.
Any Idea?
Last edited by muemmiline; 11-25-2008 at 02:52 PM.
Mine has worked (have played mario kart for just a second) then I goofed up while closing my wii. Going to send it in for repairs. But when I get home tonight I will look how mine was soldered. Since it has worked, albeit briefly, it may still be of some use to you.
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take a pic of the chip/clip please
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Wasabi V3 (Wii clip V5B) and D2E: current status
. I'll list what I think to know first and ask what I don't second. If this thread becomes valuable enough. Someone might sticky it.
I need help! Wasabi v3, Wii clip v5B
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