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Thread: Introduction and Tips for Wii Homebrew

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    Introduction and Tips for Wii Homebrew

    **This guide was originally written on Dec 05 2008.

    I do not condone piracy, and all references to backup/burned copies is for legal and archival copies only.
    Many many thanks to all who contributed to this, including authors of the homebrew, software, guides, Team Twiizers..**
    **This is an updated version of the guide, which includes more information on Bricking the Wii, launching softmod backups with WiiGator’s Homebrew, and missing homebrew from the package (WAD Manager IOS16, Wii Shop and IOS50 Updater, and Mii Channel and IOS51 Updater).**
    What can the Wii do besides playing original store bought Wii and GameCube games of the Wii’s Region?
    The Wii can:
    · Play backup/burned copies of Wii games. It can play these copies with or without a mod-chip installed inside.
    · Play backup/burned copies of GameCube games. It can play these copies only with a mod-chip installed inside.
    · Run homebrew applications, load custom Wii and GameCube Homebrew Discs, and load custom homebrew channels.

    How the Wii Firmware works:
    The Wii has files installed in order to make it function, and currently (as of v3.4) takes around ~130MB of your Wii’s 512MB NAND.
    Mainly, it has a System Menu which is the Wii’s interface when you switch it on, and it has ‘IOS’ files, which are the files needed to make the Wii Function. The IOS files are what are used by games and channels in order to make them play. The IOS files have regular updates, varying from IOS4, IOS9, IOS11, up to the most recent IOS55. These IOS files are small in size, taking on average around 1.5MB each on the Wii.
    When a game requires an IOS file which it needs to play which is not installed on your Wii, the Wii will perform a System Update when using that game disc to install the IOS file necessary (among newer System Menu and System Channels available on the disc).
    The Wii installs files as WAD package files, which contain all the files inside, and instructions on where to install the files uniquely.
    The Wii also has setting files to determine the region of the Wii, among all the other settings available in the System Settings.
    Depending on the region of the Wii and its games, the ID code of the Wii changes.
    For USA: ***E
    For JAP: ***J
    For PAL: ***P
    For KOR: ***K

    Each channel installed on the Wii, as well as game discs played on the Wii, will have a 4 letter ID code unique to it, where the last letter represents the region of the channel / game. It is easy to see this if copying a savegame from the Wii to an SD Card, and checking the folder name which the savegame copied to on the SD Card.
    Trucha Bug
    The Trucha Bug is a bug found in older IOS files which allowed for custom edited Wii ISO files to be ‘fake signed’ using the loophole bug, as well as install ‘fake signed’ channels to the Wii.
    Older IOS files have this bug. The latest update, v3.4, has new repatched versions of every IOS up to now with this bug patched, meaning using the v3.4 System Menu, it is not possible to play modified ‘fake signed’ Wii ISO files or install ‘fake signed’ channels to the Wii using the IOS files from the update without some homebrew to reverse this.

    Bricking the Wii is a term refered to when the Wii becomes inoperable due to damaged System Files, and can sometimes be unrecoverable (at the moment, as this may change when BootMii from Team Twiizers is released).
    This can occur when installing Custom Homebrew Channels with incorrect banners, or when installing a System Update for an alternate region, typically from a game disc.
    A Semi-Brick refers to a case where the Wii has an alternate region System Menu installed, and normally duplicate Weather and News Channels due to an alternate region System Update from an alternate region game disc. A Semi-Brick means that the System Settings cannot be accessed due to the region clash.
    This can be fixed with Homebrew, by re-installing the correct region System Menu, and one can also remove the duplicate channels if desired (using ‘AnyTitle Deleter’ to remove any alternate region channels according to the ID codes mentioned above).
    Semi Brick:
    This is when an alternate region System Menu is installed on the Wii. When this happens, the Wii can boot into the System Menu and all Channels can be loaded as normal, as well as Data Management. The only thing that cannot be accessed is the System Settings, so changing the options in the System Settings would rely on Homebrew, or on installing the same region System Menu onto the Wii with a WAD Installer and a WAD file, or using Homebrew to download the System Menu on-the-fly from the internet (Waninkoko’s WAD Manager or Tona’s AnyRegion Changer for examples for the above).
    Full Brick:
    This is when the Wii simply doesn’t boot into the System Menu, blocking one from doing anything with the Wii at all.
    Things that can trigger this are:
    1) System Menu and/or the IOS it uses are erased from the Wii altogether
    2) A Homebrew Channel with a bad banner which the Wii cannot load, freezing the loading process of the System Menu altogether
    3) Setting a Language which is unavailable to the current System Menu (e.g. Korean on a JAP/PAL/USA System Menu), or generally any other unavailable settings
    4) Generally Damaging/Erasing System Files used by the Wii / System Menu

    Recovery Methods:
    From the v3.0 Wii Firmware, an Inbuilt Recovery Mode was discovered which would install an update on a disc inserted if it found an update higher than the one currently on the Wii, and/or autoboot a disc if the disc was an autoboot disc.
    The Inbuilt Recovery Firmware is ordinarily triggered by a special device in the GameCube Memory Card Port, assumed to be used by Nintendo, along with a special Recovery Disc used to fix Full Bricked Wiis if the ability to do so is still in tact.
    Using the Homebrew ‘StarFall’ by Crediar, and the v3.2 System Menu, you can set the Inbuilt Recovery Mode to be triggered by holding Y on a GameCube Controller. Apparently, it is also possible to trigger the Inbuilt Recovery Mode using a GameCube Controller in Port 4, and holding UP+DOWN+LEFT+RIGHT at the same time on the D-Pad, although this is difficult to achieve with an Official Nintendo GameCube Controller.
    Ideally, if you have a Full Brick, and a way of booting into the Inbuilt Recovery Mode, you would want to put in a Game Disc which has an update larger than the one on your Wii, in order to force-install a newer update, and hopefully fix the Full Brick. If the Full Brick was caused by a bad banner on a Homebrew Channel, this will not fix the problem.
    If using v3.2 or below, and if you have a mod-chip installed, it is possible to burn Trucha Signed Autoboot Homebrew Discs, with homebrew like the WAD Installer to install a Wii Firmware again for example, or remove a Homebrew Channel with a bad banner. It can even be used for any other Homebrew that you find can help your Full Brick.
    With a mod-chip in general, you can autoboot into The Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess and run the Twilight Hack. However, this can only be done if the Twilight Hack is installed on the Wii.
    Without a mod-chip, generally, the most you can do is use a Game Disc with an update larger than the one on the Wii to try and cure the Full Brick.
    As long as a Twilight Hack Savegame is installed on the Wii, one has a mod-chip, and one has a way of booting into the Inbuilt Recovery Mode, then a Full Brick can safely be cured, provided that the System Menu and the IOS it uses are present, and potential System Files it may require are present as well.
    Wii’s Common Key
    The Wii’s Common Key is the Wii’s encryption key for most of the Wii’s Operations, and is what was discovered by Team Twiizers, leading to Homebrew, and eventually the ‘Twilight Hack’ and ‘Homebrew Channel’.
    This is needed for some software to work, and is not provided in the downloadable package file.
    The Homebrew Channel
    The Homebrew Channel
    Until the Homebrew Channel came out from Team Twiizers, the most the Wii could do was play backup/burned copies of Wii and GameCube games, and GameCube Homebrew discs, as the ability to run Wii Homebrew was yet to be discovered.
    The method of exploiting the Wii is to use a hacked savegame of ‘The Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess’. Using this savegame, you can crash the game and run an executable Wii Homebrew file on the root of an SD Card inserted called ‘boot.dol’ or ‘boot.elf’. Ideally, one would do this simply once to install the Homebrew Channel installer.
    It can also be installed with a Trucha Signed ISO and be installed, supposing the IOS files on your Wii are not patched against the Trucha Bug (which would be ordinarily, unless tampered with, v3.2 or below).
    The Homebrew Channel, once installed as a channel on the Wii, is a way of loading any homebrew organized on the Wii’s SD Card inside - it is the medium for loading any and all homebrew one can want to load on the Wii, and is essential for one who wants to do more with their Wii than just what comes out of the box.
    Homebrew Applications include homemade games, media players, utilities, emulators, among many others, all databased on the official wiki website, WiiBrew.
    The latest version for v3.4 can only be run once, and then must be erased and re-installed to be used again.
    Installing Homebrew
    The process is simple - you need an SD Card for the Wii with a folder named ‘apps’ on the root of the SD Card. From there, each homebrew goes into any folder you make inside, with the executable file names ‘boot.dol’ or ‘boot.elf’, depending on the type of executable file.
    It is possible to place a picture for the homebrew, to show up on the Homebrew Channel, as a ‘PNG’ file named ‘icon.png’ with the resolution of 128x46. It is also possible to have a custom description inside an XML file placed in the folder, named ‘meta.xml’.
    Once the Homebrew is on the SD Card according to the above instructions, it should show up in the Homebrew Channel Menu. Simply load it by selecting it on the menu and then loading it!
    Mod-Chipping the Wii
    Currently, the Wii has been chipped using ‘Drive Chips’, which means that the DVD Drive is patched on-the-fly to tell the Wii that burned Wii or GameCube games are the exact same thing as original pressed Wii or GameCube games. These chips in no way modify the Wii beyond tricking the DVD Drive as the disc is inserted.
    Many different mod-chips exist, but the bottom line is the model of DVD Drive in the Wii. The earliest Wii DVD Drive is called the ‘DMS’, followed by the ‘D2A’, and then the ‘D2B’. Later revisions of the ‘D2B’ were released with 3 cut IC legs on the chip, in order to cut electrical flow to the common solder points and disabling the chip installed, unless the cut IC legs were rebuilt or the chip was dremeled/exposed to have wires soldered to the exposed circuitry lines corresponding to the IC legs / solder points.
    The DMS/D2A/D2B Wii DVD Drives are ‘1st Generation’ DVD Drives, in that the ones to follow required an entirely different chip with more complex code and more wires, as the DVD Drives were overhauled to be more secure. The ‘2nd Generation’ of DVD Drives would include, as of now, the ‘D2C’, ‘D2C2’, ‘D2D’, and ‘D2E’. The most recent ‘D2E’ DVD Drives sometimes have black epoxy glue around the Drive’s ‘D2E’ chip in order to protect the IC Legs from being soldered to, making it difficult to install a chip unless the epoxy is professionally removed.
    Seeing as the most recent mod-chips accomodate for all the DVD Drives up to now, I feel there is no point in mentioning the older chips at all, and simply to recommend newer ones which work with all DVD Drive versions.
    Namely, these would include the D2Pro, Wasabi, and WiiKey 2.
    There are no adverse effects from updating the Wii, or playing online and being connected to WiiConnect24, in terms of the mod-chip’s functionality. The only issue that arose up to this point is the ‘ERROR #001’ issue found only on backup copies of some games, where loading a backup copy of the game will result in the error message and refuse to play. Mod-Chips have been patched to fix this error completely.
    wii-clip for WIIKEY,D2CKEY,D2CPRO,ARGON,D2PRO, WASABI and DMS,D2A,D2B,D2C for wii console!
    For Wii DVD Drives without the black epoxy glue, there is something known as the Wii-Clip, which is simply a ribbon cable attached to a clip. The Clip is clipped onto the Wii DVD Drive’s Chipset, and a mod-chip can be soldered to the ribbon.
    The Wii-Clip makes installing a mod-chip quite literally plug and play, as well as requiring very little soldering experience (or none if one purchases a mod-chip pre-soldered onto a Wii-Clip), as well as avoiding the need to solder to extremely small solder points, normally requiring someone with small electronics soldering experience to do the soldering of the chip.
    What Do Mod-Chips Do?
    Mod-Chips allow for booting burned/copied Wii and GameCube games. If the games are of the same region as the Wii, then there is no issue booting those copies, and will act exactly like the original games.
    Mod-Chips also have inbuilt region patching, which works for some games and not for others, with compatibility being game dependant. This applies to Wii and GameCube alternate region games.
    Booting of Trucha Signed patched Wii ISOs, containing modified game files, or a custom Homebrew ISO can also be loaded, provided that the IOS file used by the System Menu on the Wii has the Trucha Bug.
    How To Create Backups
    There are 2 methods to making backups, which are:
    1) On a PC with 4 models of LG GDR-DVD-ROM 8161/2/3/4 Drives and software
    2) On the Wii via Homebrew

    N.B. If the game disc is already a backup/burned copy, a 1:1 copy in a copying software will work perfectly fine.
    A full Nintendo GameCube ISO is exactly 1.35 GB (1,459,978,240 bytes).
    A full Nintendo Wii ISO is exactly 4.37 GB (4,699,979,776 bytes).
    On a PC with an LG GDR-DVD-ROM
    I recommend using the DOS Command based ‘FriiDump’, or there is also a Windows GUI software called ‘RawDump’ to do the job. I am unfamiliar with any other OS, but software for other OS’ exists.
    To use FriiDump, simply type the command “friidump -d x -a”, where ‘x’ refers to the drive letter of the DVD-ROM Drive. This command makes FriiDump automatically dump the game in an unscrambled format, i.e. ready-to-burn.
    To use RawDump, simply click on the ‘Start Dump’ button to start the dump.
    The process takes about 2-3 hours depending on the software used. I recommend ‘FriiDump’, for Dual Layer games especially, and as it takes more time, I’m psychologically convinced it dumps the game better.
    Through the Wii via Homebrew
    You will need to have the following:
    1) Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7 (IOS36 WAD required on root of SD Card, and not provided in downloadable package file) - A Custom IOS with extra features, like the ability to install older System Files
    2) Waninkoko’s Disc Dumper - This is used to dump the disc inside either to an SD Card, a USB Device, or through WiFi.

    After installing Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7, run the Disc Dumper. You can select to dump to the SD Card or USB Device, and if those are chosen, you can decide how to split the file if you want. After it dumps the file according to the size you specify, copy the file to your PC and then continue with the next part.
    Keep in mind that the name of the file will remain constant, so it is up to you to rename the file manually to ‘part1’, ‘part2’, etc.
    Once all parts have been dumped, you can use the DOS Command Line “copy /b part1+part2+partn” to append all the parts together, producing a perfectly functioning ISO backup.
    If you choose to dump the game through WiFi, a website address to visit in your Web Browser on your PC will be provided, and simply load the page on your browser to start downloading the ISO in one go.
    A Wii ISO is 4.37 GB (4,699,979,776 bytes), regardless of the size of the game contents themselves. Furthermore, if one tries to compress an ISO with a program like WinRAR or 7-Zip, the file size will remain just about the same size.
    Scrubbing the ISO with ‘WiiScrubber’ (Wii Common Key is needed for this software and is not provided in downloadable package file), the resultant product can be compressed to a smaller size.
    Scrubbed ISOs, as of now, will work perfectly fine when burned and played, even on the latest v3.4 Wii System Menu.
    Recommended Burning Tips
    Here is a list of media codes for DVDs, with 1st class media being the most recommended, for least strain on the Wii’s lens, and in order to try and keep the life of the lens as long as possible:
    DigitalDAQ DVD Media Listing
    You can use IMGBurn to see the ‘Media ID Code’, whether the disc is blank or has been burned on.
    Also, DVD-R is the recommended media, since it is generally more compatible with devices, however any -RW or +R/RW will work just as well.
    Although it is recommended to use good media, the Wii can be sensitive and picky to the media it accepts. Sometimes even the best media will refuse to read, but lower grade media will work fine. It is a hit an miss, generally speaking, but DVD-R is recommended as a general compatible DVD Blank over DVD+R or any form of ReWritable.
    As for the DVD Burner, LiteOn and Sony drives are, from research, not very good for producing the best console backup discs.
    Plextor, NEC and Pioneer are the most recommended drives to use - Plextor being the most expensive but the best one you can find, and NEC and Pioneer being the same technology, but one being slightly more expensive than the other.
    It is highly recommended to use IMGBurn to burn the ISO, at a low speed of 4x, as IMGBurn is excellent for burning console backups, where some other burning software sometimes fails.
    Notes for Dual-Layer Backups
    With Super Smash Bros. Brawl out on DVD9, a small addition is needed to be known, and potential lens tweaking. The Wii DVD Drives themselves (perhaps not on newer DVD Drives) cannot read Dual Layer discs very easily, causing issues with even original pressed versions of the DVD9 games. This makes even larger issues for burned Dual Layer discs as well.
    It is recommended when burning the Dual Layer ISO (at least for Super Smash Bros. Brawl) to make sure in IMGBurn, under the Tools -> Settings -> Write -> Layer Break settings, to make sure the Layer Break settings are set to ‘User Specified’ and it set to 2084960, but however, some have had success without needing to set the specific Layer Break number.
    It is recommended to burn on 8x DVD-DL+R or DVD-DL-R blanks at the speed of 2.4x, as opposed to using 2.4x blanks at 2.4x, as more people have found success with 8x discs over 2.4x discs.
    If the disc does not read in the Wii successfully, or makes 3 fast clicking sounds when inserting the disc into the Wii, it is recommended to tweak the lens in order to read the disc. This will ultimately reduce the lifespan of the lens, as tweaking the lens means making the lens use more power to read media.
    To do so, you must open up the DVD Drive to the point that the POT Variable Resistor is exposed. After opening up the Wii to the point of exposing the Wii’s DVD Drive, like when soldering a mod-chip to the DVD Drive, remove the 2 screws holding the metal plate on the DVD Drive to remove the metal plate. Carefully remove the 4 sets of cables inside after the metal plate is removed, and then after splitting the drive into two halves, remove the screw holding down the metal plate (on the half that would have a mod-chip installed to it) and the 4 clips holding the drive.
    At this point, the POT Variable Resistor screw should be exposed. From here, use a digital multimeter set to Ohms on opposite corners of the screw to get the current POT reading (averaging around 700-800 Ohms), and reduce it by turning the screw with a screwdriver counter-clockwise (extremely slowly, as tiny turns can move the Ohms considerably) to a value around 500-550 Ohms (or lower if necessary, but not much at all), and possibly less if possible. This tweak should be enough to read the burned Dual Layer Disc without a problem, and especially if it is burned on a good media and good burner, to help encourage the least strain on the lens possible.
    Refer to the picture included in the downloadable package file provided to see a picture of the POT Variable Resistor Screw. Place the Digital Multimeter’s red and black cables on the top-right and bottom-left of the screw, according to the picture.
    Disc Read Errors
    Disc Read Errors can occur for multiple reasons, generally because of a dirty disc or because of misalignment of the DVD Drive in the Wii from opening and closing up the Wii.
    · Check the disc to see for scratches or smudges, and wipe them with a gentle cloth, from the inside of the disc to the outside of the disc, from the centre.
    · Check your ISO to see if you made a correct dump.
    A full Nintendo GameCube ISO is exactly 1.35 GB (1,459,978,240 bytes).
    A full Nintendo Wii ISO is exactly 4.37 GB (4,699,979,776 bytes).
    · If you are experiencing DREs with backup/burned copies, try to reburn the disc, and perhaps on another media, as it could be a bad burn / incompatible media.
    · Check that the Wii’s DVD Drive is screwed in properly. If the DVD Drive is out of place, and can be sensitive to such a thing, rescrew the 4 screws which go into the rubber pads 100%, and then unscrew each screw by a tiny turn, just to allow for the potential for buoyancy.

    Downgrading The Wii With Homebrew
    If you have upgraded your Wii, and would like to downgrade to a lower System Menu and to older IOS files, it is possible to do with the Homebrew Channel and some homebrew programs.
    1) Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7 (IOS36 WAD required on root of SD Card, and not provided in downloadable package file) - A Custom IOS with extra features, like the ability to install older System Files
    2) Waninkoko’s WAD Manager v1.3 - A Homebrew to install WAD package files onto the Wii (placed in the ‘wad’ folder on the root of an SD Card)
    3) Trucha Signer PC Software - This is to edit the contents of a Wii ISO in order to extract older Wii Firmware Files (Wii Common Key is needed for this software and is not provided in downloadable package file)
    4) The necessary Firmware Files (not provided in downloadable package file)

    <In the case of v3.4, where the Trucha Bug is patched in all IOS files, a couple of extra steps need to be taken>:
    5) IOS16 (not provided in downloadable package file) - A unique official IOS found on a Nintendo Backup Recovery Disc by accident, which is able to install to the Wii as it is an official IOS, and still has the Trucha Bug
    6) Modified WAD Manager Using IOS16 (placed in the ‘wad’ folder on the root of an SD Card)
    7) Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7 WAD (not provided in downloadable package file) - Using the Modified WAD Manager and a WAD of cIOS 36 rev 7, one can install the cIOS, and from there, rely on steps 2, 3, and 4 from above, as the cIOS would be installed and can be used to downgrade the Wii with the WAD Manager.

    It is highly recommended if you are considering to downgrade to a lower Wii System Menu, to extract, using the Trucha Signer, the update partition WAD files from a game disc such as Wii Fit, Super Smash Bros. Brawl or Mario Kart Wii, as these games contain updates from v3.2 and below, being ideal for extracting older files. If you want to keep current updated System Channels, such as newer Mii and Shop Channels, simply avoid the channel WAD files, such as the Shop Channel WAD, and only extract the ‘IOS’ and ‘MIOS’ WAD files.
    To get the System Menu v3.2 WAD files, as the games mentioned above have the v3.1 System Menu, those can be extracted from the ‘Semi-Brick Fix Discs’ from Team Twiizers with the Trucha Signer (not provided in downloadable package file).
    Once acquired, simply use Waninkoko’s WAD Manager v1.3 to manually install each WAD.
    Keep in mind that removing the IOS files completely from your Wii can result in a brick, and especially the System Menu and the IOS it uses.
    Software Chipping the Wii
    It is possible to software chip the Wii, having backup/burned copies play on a Wii without a chip. This requires the following:
    1) Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7 (IOS36 WAD required on root of SD Card, and not provided in downloadable package file) - A Custom IOS with extra features, like the ability to install older System Files
    2) Waninkoko’s MenuPatcher - Software to patch the System Menu to work with backup/burned copies of Wii games.

    After installing Waninkoko’s cIOS 36 rev 7, simply run MenuPatcher to patch the System Menu to work with backup copies. Once the System Menu is patched, it will boot backup copies with a relatively high compatibility rate.
    The differences between a mod-chip and the software chipping method mentioned here is:
    · The mod-chip can guarantee the copies to play, regardless of whether the Wii is updated or not, providing security against re-installing the System Menu, or potential future blocking of the MenuPatcher by Nintendo.
    · The Wii boots games discs at 6x, and DVDs at 3x. This method of software chipping boots the backup/burned copies at 3x, like DVDs, and means loading times may be longer and videos may lag, resulting in extra care for burning the best copies possible and taking care of the media from scratches and smudges.

    This does not work for GameCube, and only for Wii.
    Another method can be used, which is to load a Homebrew from the Homebrew Channel, which has one benefit over Waninkoko’s Menu Patcher - it can load alternate region games with the same compatibility as GeckoOS.
    1) WiiGator’s cIOS 36 rev 7 (IOS36 WAD required on root of SD Card, and not provided in downloadable package file) - A Custom IOS with extra features, like the ability to install older System Files. This is a specially modified version by WiiGator for use with his Backup Loader
    2) WiiGator’s Backup Loader v0.3g - Homebrew based off GeckoOS which can load backup/burned copies of Wii games.

    Changing the Wii’s Region
    This is possible accomplish using the homebrew ‘AnyRegion Changer’. The software allows you to change the Area Code and Region of your Wii, as well as Video Mode. Once changed, you need to install the alternate region’s System Menu to remove the semi-brick your Wii would have, as well as remove any risk of it becoming a full brick.
    This can be done from the homebrew itself, but manually installing it is personally recommended, using Waninkoko’s WAD Manager and having the WAD Files.
    (Hippy note: Regionfrii, Brickblocker, Wizzle Shizzle Dizzle & WAD programs are all part of the Tools Pack on the index page of the Utilities section above)
    Playing Alternate Region Wii Games Perfectly
    Beyond normal region patching, which is a hit and miss, one can use the homebrew GeckoOS to load alternate region Wii and GameCube games with just about 100% compatibility.
    Playing DVD Movies and Media on the Wii
    In order to play DVD Movies, homebrew which can watch DVDs is needed. Currently, mPlayer supports this, supposing (if you have a mod-chip), ‘PatchMii’ is installed (which is a custom IOS from Team Twiizers) and ‘Libdi’ is installed (which is a hidden DVDX Channel). If DVDX is associated to the ‘PatchMii IOS’ (IOS254) then mPlayer should work with DVD Movies.
    mPlayer can also play other media, like movie and music files.
    My Recommended Setup
    My personal recommended setup would be to have a mod-chip installed, and have v3.2 as the Wii’s System Menu, and all older IOS files installed which have the Trucha Bug retained, for booting and installing ‘Fake Signed’ Games and Channels.
    I would recommend installing ‘StarFall’ to patch the v3.2 System Menu to enable region free, including 100% compatibility for GameCube alternate region games, and block game discs from asking to update. This is a particularly useful hack for preventing unwanted updates.
    Game Discs simply need the correct IOS file installed on the Wii, and does not need anything else installed from the update. When new IOS files come out, one can simply extract them and manually with the Trucha Signer and Waninkoko’s WAD Manager. As of now, newer games contain IOS38, IOS53 and IOS55, which can be manually extracted and installed.
    I would also recommend installing the newer Wii Shop Channel and Mii Channels if you do not have them already, as well as on-the-fly patching the newer IOS50 and IOS51 (to install the Trucha Bug) which were released at the same time online as those channels.
    N.B These homebrews install the most recent versions of those channels.
    With this setup, you can remove the Health and Safety Screen if you choose, and you can disable discs from asking to update, while manually updating your Wii with the needed IOS files. You can also enable region patching, and 100% compatibility for GameCube alternate region games.
    It is recommended to disable region patching on your installed mod-chip, setting the chip to ‘no region’ - a clash will occur and the region patching done by StarFall will be null, especially for the 100% GameCube alternate region game support.
    You can use the MultiISO Creator to make a self-bootable GameCube Disc with as many games as can fit on the disc, to have a Multi-Boot GameCube ISO Disc. When booting the disc, make sure to choose the region of the game itself on the menu when loading a game. You can also use GCMUtility to wipe/shrink GameCube ISOs, removing the extra padding space on the ISO, enabling you to have more ISOs on a Multi-Boot GameCube ISO.
    Lastly, you can use the homebrew GeckoOS to boot alternate region Wii Games with about 100% compatibility.

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