nice pictures, anyway.
pls be explicit to:
--mark the G point where u plan to solder on.
-- mark the other G' points where u think may be alternative
if my memory is right, G is the clock signal path. several applicable points on the Drive board, perhaps.
at this point, it's ok for u to solder on the leg as u've mentioned.
c what comes up.
Looking at ur 1st picture, the lifted pad consists no PTH (plated-thru-hole). That confirms directly soldering onto the leg of the chip will definitely WORKABLE ! (in fact, my wii did soldered at that point, but i forgot whether it's truely no PTH at there. sorry for my bad memory. ) keep ur fingers cross........
Last edited by billyhome; 02-25-2009 at 12:05 AM.
from ur pic, it seems pins 3 & 4 has a solder short. am i wrong ? u must be sure abt it.
u could shorten the 3v3 connection and the GND connection to the "upper" zone. at present, the connections are just toooooo long to the "lower" zone.
Last edited by billyhome; 02-25-2009 at 12:10 AM.
You should just solder the G wire to the IC leg near the point you lifted (follow the trace, believe it's the second IC leg). D2C are less prone to have the eject issue so that should work fine m8. Also, like the previous poster stated, you should use the alternate power and ground points because those wires are WAY too long. Here is a pic of one of my D2C installs:
Hi, thanks for the quick response. The spot where I would now solder the g point is on the second IR leg of the chip (basically where the original g point traces to) and my alternate g point would be the one indicated here: How to fix Eject Issue on Wiikey v2 - WiiNewz - Wii modchip & hacking community
Originally Posted by billyhome
At this point, can I still use the alternate point or do I have to now stick with the leg of the IC chip that connects to the original g point since I've already messed up the point it traces to?
So what I am gathering is I can still salvage the board even though I lifted the pad of the G point? If I can still manage to solder onto the leg then I feel that there still might be hope then. I think I will try it tonight and get back and post something whether it works or not. Wish me luck.\
I've read a few posts here that have the same issues, but unfortunately I've never read any of them reply back with whether or not they were able to get it working again after soldering it directly to the IC leg pin.
Thanks for everyone's input. So I soldered the last G point to the second leg and booted it up. The lights on the mod chip blinked twice in succession and it booted up fine with no weird dvd noises or anthing. SO I've put it all back together, installed the firmware 1.2 for the wiikey 2, installed homebrew channel and now everything seems ok. Hopefully, things will be alright in the future as well. I should also mention that I forgot to shorten the 3.3v and ground wire per the suggestions, but it seems to be fine. I don't know if this could cause trouble for me in the future. Thanks again everyone!
mugen, u did a nice job. ur wii will be fine for years ! but, bear in mind, the looooong 3v3 and Gnd wires may be becoming flying angels (loosen), accidently.
regarding the alternative G points (aimed 4 Eject fix Issue), it's a direct pin soldering, as well. no lift pad issue.
u've picked the correct output pin of clock signal. keep it!
Thanks Billyhome, I gotta say I saw a few videos of people installing their wiikey's on youtube and I find it amazing how they do it without a magnifying glass. I used one and I still found it extremely difficult to do that last point. For the future, I will definately use the alternate points. I also need to find a good place online to order a really fine point soldering iron for any future jobs.
1 User Says Thank You billyhome For This Useful Post
~ WiiHacks ★Top Post for Hardware Fix ~
for those bridged points, hold your soldering iron on it for a few seconds and feed more solder into it until its a small ball
once you have done that cover it with some flux, get desolder braid hold it over the ball, set your soldering iron over the braid ontop of the solder ball and feed a small bit of solder into it to help flow, press down slightly on it until the solder ball is gone and lift the desolder braid as if you where ripping off a plaster, but slower..
as for the lifted pad dont worry about that as far as i can see it doesnt lead anywhere, just solder to the alt. g point on the other chip