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Thread: Softmodding Brand-New Wii

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    Softmodding Brand-New Wii

    Hey

    I just bought my son a Wii a couple hours ago. I got around 6 games for him, including the Zelda one to softmod it. However, since its such a new wii that just came in from a shipment, it probably has the D2C Chipset. My question is, can I softmod the Wii using the guide from Softmodding for Dummies? Also, are there any downsides to softmodding (IE many games dont work, etc)

    Thanks!

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    Senior Member admiral victorinox's Avatar
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    Yes, and OMG YES!

    it requires a lot of attention and reading!!

    new updates remove things, and cause problems for some programs
    some games wont work with some programs
    some programs edit system files, and if used incorrectly youll brick your wii
    installing some programs or files can brick your wii
    if you keep updating youll lose more and more, and you got to learn how to keep 3.2 the best
    you got to downgrade if youre above 3.2 to get the most out of your wii
    etc etc etc

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    e39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Hey
    I just bought my son a Wii a couple hours ago. I got around 6 games for him, including the Zelda one to softmod it. However, since its such a new wii that just came in from a shipment, it probably has the D2C Chipset.
    Go to WiiDrives.com and enter your serial number to see what you might potentially have. If this is a brand new Wii from the store, I'm guessing a D2E with Epoxy around the drive chip.

    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    My question is, can I softmod the Wii using the guide from Softmodding for Dummies?
    Yes. Follow this very closely.

    http://www.wiihacks.com/faq-guides-t...atutorial.html

    Before blindly executing steps, research what you're doing and why. It'll give you much better insight for proper operation and updating.


    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Also, are there any downsides to softmodding (IE many games dont work, etc)
    Pros:
    Backup Loader Gamma - This will boot out of region games and even dvd-r's.

    Wad Manager - This application will allow you to patch your firmware and a
    also install Virtual Console / WiiWare titles to your dashboard as a channel.

    StarFall - A master configuration utility that is much needed.

    Cons:
    When you learn why you want the 3.2 firmware, you have to stick to it. Newer games that want the 3.4 firmware will take some extra work to make them run. Is it hard? No. Is it easy? Yes. Is it annoying at times? You bet.

    The Backup Loader Gamma isn't 100% flawless. It'll boot quite a few games, but you might run into some issues. If you're into playing dvd-r's, your best route is a modchip ... if possible pending your drive chip / board configuration,

    You can "brick" your Wii. You can render it nearly useless if you're sloppy and don't know the rules.

    Just some tips:
    - If you're at the 3.2 firmware, do not update. You're done for now.

    - Never update your console with a disc outside of your own region. For example, do not take a European (PAL) disc and update your American (NTSC-U) Wii. The conflicting regions will ruin the machine.

    - Read, read, read, and search, search, search.

    Helpful Threads:
    Dump & Burn discs | 3.3 / 3.4 Firmware FYI | Wii Disassemble | WiiClip Install

    Consoles:
    Wii - 4.1U - WiiKey 2 - USBLoader GX - SNES9X GX, Genesis Plus GX, FCE GX w. cover flow mods
    360 - Resident Evil S.E. - iXtreme LT 1.1 - JTag - FreeBoot 0.032 9199 Dash - NXE2GOD, XM360, XeXMenu 1.1, Flash360
    PSP - CFW 5.00m33, 16GB MSPD | DS Lite - DSTT w.1.17a r12, 8GB SDHC

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    Thanks so much, will definitely look around. I modded the Xbox 360, but it seems that the Wii is a bit more tricky. 1 Question --

    If I decide to Soft-Mod my Wii now, is it possible to reverse the procedure and restore the Wii to out of the box new status? I am assuming it is possible if I revert back to the 3.4U FW.

    I am only asking that because I may just buy a Solderless DC2Pro w/WiiClip already soldered and just get that in there becuase it seems to be more friendly to a person who wants things to work with the 3.4 FW instead of downgrading to 3.2 and one that does not need out-of region capabilities.

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    e39
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    If the only thing you're interested in is playing DVD-R's, then your route of freely updating to the 3.4 firmware will work (for now).

    The biggest problem to all of this is the legal verbiage in the 3.4 firmware policy. Previously in the past, Nintendo would tell the user when the system update is about to happen. The machine needed your permission to update. The 3.4's user lisence states that is no longer true. Nintendo can freely update your console without your knowledge or permission.

    So, you're at a 3.4 today, you can be at a 3.5 tomorrow. The 3.5 could be packed with anti-modchip coding, who knows? People like the 3.2 because their machine is still theirs. They still have total control of what's going into it.




    Again though, don't blindly purchase a modchip. You need to figure out exactly what's inside your Wii.

    Current Drive Chips
    DMS, D2A, D2B, D2C, D2C2, D2E

    The WiiClip has different soldering points depending on your drivechip.

    Identifying your drive chip:
    Wii Drive Chip Database

    This is an accurate database of what's in your console based on the serial number.

    How to mod:
    Take the WiiClip and pop it onto the chip labeled "Panasonic".


    Easy enough, right? But ...

    What Nintendo is doing to prevent modding:
    The units on the shelf now might be epoxy'ed ...


    The newest drives have the controller ripped out.
    Last edited by e39; 12-23-2008 at 02:51 PM.

    Helpful Threads:
    Dump & Burn discs | 3.3 / 3.4 Firmware FYI | Wii Disassemble | WiiClip Install

    Consoles:
    Wii - 4.1U - WiiKey 2 - USBLoader GX - SNES9X GX, Genesis Plus GX, FCE GX w. cover flow mods
    360 - Resident Evil S.E. - iXtreme LT 1.1 - JTag - FreeBoot 0.032 9199 Dash - NXE2GOD, XM360, XeXMenu 1.1, Flash360
    PSP - CFW 5.00m33, 16GB MSPD | DS Lite - DSTT w.1.17a r12, 8GB SDHC

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    Senior Member admiral victorinox's Avatar
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    http://www.wiihacks.com/faq-guides-t...atutorial.html
    ^ how to downgrade

    its no different for either thing, when it comes down to anything, 3.2 is universally the best

    usually when E3 does those big write ups, he mentions so many details that, he doesnt always mention whats need =P thats why you wait, and not say everything

    you see, you probly got epoxy if its new, and if its REALLY new you dont even have a drive chip, between the 2 you got 99.9%, if u bought in 2 weeks from a retail store =\

    which means either Hard solder it
    remove all the proxy and put in the clip *just solder it in -,_-,*
    or replace the drive *if u dont have a drive chip 100% needed*

    software works on all reguardless

    D2pro
    wasabi
    and wiikey 2 are all fine

    and all chips will work on any firmware, its not important but 3.4 is a HUGE problem no matter what

    auto updates IE if u dont got homebrew you will be updated if u got internet if nintendo wants *could make your chip useless, or atleast block your chip update firmware, away *cd only, meaning you got to pay the extra 15 for the jtag + get it ready to use if need be*

    you got to keep updating, since some games require updates, and you go to get those updates to play THERE IS NO WORK AROUND FOR IT, IF IT NEED IT IT ISNT GONNA WORK!

    you cant download scrubbed games
    you cant download patched games
    you cant remove the update
    you cant patch the region
    you cant make it edited in any way shape or form

    meaning you 100% have to use 4.3 gig downloads

    so more or less you got to downgrade anyways =\

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    Quote Originally Posted by admiral victorinox View Post
    http://www.wiihacks.com/faq-guides-t...atutorial.html
    ^ how to downgrade

    its no different for either thing, when it comes down to anything, 3.2 is universally the best

    usually when E3 does those big write ups, he mentions so many details that, he doesnt always mention whats need =P thats why you wait, and not say everything

    you see, you probly got epoxy if its new, and if its REALLY new you dont even have a drive chip, between the 2 you got 99.9%, if u bought in 2 weeks from a retail store =

    which means either Hard solder it
    remove all the proxy and put in the clip *just solder it in -,_-,*
    or replace the drive *if u dont have a drive chip 100% needed*

    software works on all reguardless

    D2pro
    wasabi
    and wiikey 2 are all fine

    and all chips will work on any firmware, its not important but 3.4 is a HUGE problem no matter what

    auto updates IE if u dont got homebrew you will be updated if u got internet if nintendo wants *could make your chip useless, or atleast block your chip update firmware, away *cd only, meaning you got to pay the extra 15 for the jtag + get it ready to use if need be*

    you got to keep updating, since some games require updates, and you go to get those updates to play THERE IS NO WORK AROUND FOR IT, IF IT NEED IT IT ISNT GONNA WORK!

    you cant download scrubbed games
    you cant download patched games
    you cant remove the update
    you cant patch the region
    you cant make it edited in any way shape or form

    meaning you 100% have to use 4.3 gig downloads

    so more or less you got to downgrade anyways =
    Alright -- Thanks everyone for the help

    So from what I've gathered --

    Using the Samsung SH-D163B (for my 360 burning) or my regular NEC 3520A drive, I can rip my original wii games in 20-25 minutes (With some software that I still have to figure out which one, any ideas?) and burn using my NEC 3520A. Because of legal verbiage, I should downgrade to 3.2 and because of the backups im making I really have no use for a modchip, especially with the new Wii I have which makes it harder to find a compatible one. Finally, I will burn these games on Verbatim DVD-R. So, plan of action:

    1) Downgrade to 3.2
    2) Soft-Mod Wii
    3) Copy original game (With TBA software)
    4) Burn original copied game with IMGBURN on Verbatim DVD-R's. (Made In Singapore of course)

    So, do I finally have the jist of everything or am I missing why modchips would be much more benefical in this instance?

    Also, I assume that even though im on 3.2, I can play Smash Bros Brawl with no problem online against other Wii Gamers, and same goes for all games burned since they are original backups. However, there may be compatibility issues with some games and the Wii Loader. Correct?

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    Senior Member admiral victorinox's Avatar
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    wrong, only 4 drives can do that =P *their LG i dont keep the numbers handy*
    thats about it, but you need a special drive, you can do it via wifi if u want

    you can play any game on 3.2 no problem too

  10. #9
    e39
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    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Using the Samsung SH-D163B (for my 360 burning) or my regular NEC 3520A drive, I can rip my original wii games in 20-25 minutes (With some software that I still have to figure out which one, any ideas?) and burn using my NEC 3520A.
    Not quite. Wii discs can be read with 1 of 4 LG dvd-rom drives. (GDR-8161B, GDR-8162B, GDR-8163B, GDR-8164B)

    From there, you use a program called RawDump 2.1 to rip the game. RawDump has a few quirks depending your operating system (XP or Vista). If you need more information after searching the forums, do let me know.

    Dumping a Wii title is quite slow. The GDR-8162B model seems to be the fastest out of the 3, ripping a game within 2.5 hours. Considering the other options (WiFi or other LG drive listed), this is about 1 to 1.5 hours faster.



    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Because of legal verbiage, I should downgrade to 3.2
    That, and "must have" homebrew applications such as "StarFall" are only compatible with the 3.2 firmware.

    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    because of the backups im making I really have no use for a modchip, especially with the new Wii I have which makes it harder to find a compatible one.
    Somewhat correct.

    You can try the softmod scene to see if you like it. There's no harm. If you run into lots of compatibility issues, terrible load times, and other things ... you can always upgrade to a modchip.

    If you have no drive chip or the epoxy is too daunting, you can buy a drive off of eBay and swap it. There's no dvd drive key extraction matches like the 360. Easy swap and play.


    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Finally, I will burn these games on Verbatim DVD-R.
    Verbatim has never failed for me once. Not a single bad disc.

    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    1) Downgrade to 3.2
    2) Soft-Mod Wii
    3) Copy original game (With TBA software)
    4) Burn original copied game with IMGBURN on Verbatim DVD-R's. (Made In Singapore of course)
    This sounds like a good plan of action. Use the guides posted above to get the job done.

    That link again is:
    http://www.wiihacks.com/faq-guides-t...atutorial.html

    You really want to familiarize yourself with the WAD Manager. It's the most useful utility you can find. When you're at the 3.2 firmware, you're going to have to install mini-firmware updates manually through the WAD Manager.

    The application is a part of the SD card download bundle.


    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    So, do I finally have the jist of everything or am I missing why modchips would be much more benefical in this instance?
    Modchips are beneficial due to their high rate of compatibility. No tricks, no launchers, nothing. Insert the disc and play.

    Also, modchips (WiiKey 2 for example) have all sorts of other options built into it's own WiiKey firmware.

    Quote Originally Posted by hdtv22 View Post
    Also, I assume that even though im on 3.2, I can play Smash Bros Brawl with no problem online against other Wii Gamers, and same goes for all games burned since they are original backups. However, there may be compatibility issues with some games and the Wii Loader. Correct?
    You can play online with no issues. There's no service banning like XBox Live.

    Smash Bros is a completely different beast. It's the only Dual Layer game out there. When burning the dual layer, you're going to have to set a manual layer break ... kinda like burning Xbox 360 games without a .DVD file.

    Helpful Threads:
    Dump & Burn discs | 3.3 / 3.4 Firmware FYI | Wii Disassemble | WiiClip Install

    Consoles:
    Wii - 4.1U - WiiKey 2 - USBLoader GX - SNES9X GX, Genesis Plus GX, FCE GX w. cover flow mods
    360 - Resident Evil S.E. - iXtreme LT 1.1 - JTag - FreeBoot 0.032 9199 Dash - NXE2GOD, XM360, XeXMenu 1.1, Flash360
    PSP - CFW 5.00m33, 16GB MSPD | DS Lite - DSTT w.1.17a r12, 8GB SDHC

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    Alright, so I think I'm going to try the soft-mod scene for a while, but most likely I will upgrade to a modchip. So, here is the list of stuff I need to buy

    1) 50 Verbatim DVD-R's

    2) Tri-Wing Screwdriver and the Special size Phillips Screwdriver for opening the Wii

    3) D2C Drive such as this one -- Brand New Original Nintendo Wii DVD Drive D2C Working - eBay (item 170288758079 end time Dec-30-08 10:11:12 PST)

    3) Solderless Modchip for the D2C Chipset (IE D29Pro V3 already soldered to the wiiclip) like this one (Comes w/screwdrivers) -- Canadamods.ca - Official Distributor of Wiikey, WiiKey 2, D2PRO 9, Wii-Clip, Wasabi V3, WiiZard, D2SUN, D2CKEY and more - 100% Solderless D2PRO9 V3 for D2C/D2C2/D2E + Triwing&Cross Screwdriver set

    To take out and swap the drives, is it as easy as figuring out how to take the old one out and plugging the new one back in, and to install the presoldered modchip, its as easy as popping it on the chip labeled "Panasonic" on the D2C Drive I will buy on eBay? Is there a tutorial that I could not find on this?

    Also, I figured that I might aswell wait the extra hour and do my ripping via Wifi between the Wii and my PC because I would have to get an external enclosure for the LG drive and the drive itself, which is costly ontop of the other expenses in this project. 1 Question -- Because it's wifi, the ripping wont interfere with the speed of my internet?

    TOTAL COST - D2C Drive ($70) + Verbatims ($15) + Pre-Soldered Modchip including screwdrivers ($85) = $170

    Anything else? And thanks for all your help guys and happy holidays

    EDIT -- One last thing -- How much do you guys think I could get for my current drive, which is probably epoxy'd and without a drive controller? Thanks!
    Last edited by hdtv22; 12-24-2008 at 08:40 PM.

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