After further testing is seems that on 9 out of 10 wii's i tested the small oscillator chips do seem to work flawless.
Currently busy on pinpointing the problem. Why it won't work on this one particular Wii.
I decided to do some testing after some complaints from customers that the Drivekey won't play their original games.
Last week received 50 drivekeys and they are shown in the picture on the Right side ( big oscillator)
This week received the 2nd batch of drivekeys and they can be seen in the picture on the left.
Iíve been testing for a few hours now and Iíve come to some conclusions:
First there are two kinds of drivekeys one with lock flatcable connectors and one with push down flatcable connectors ( see picture for illustration).
Besides the connectors the oscillator on the on is bigger than on the other.
The one that I received in the first shipment is the one on the right in the picture.
-The drivekey in the picture on the right(BO) plays orginal PAL, NTSC no problem
-The drivekey in the picture on the left (SO) does not play orginal games of Region PAL and NTSC ( tested both region discs with all jumper settings)
-The problem isnít the ribbon cable of the Drivekey I tried several original ribbon cables as well as replacement ribbon cables and Flatmii and Argon2 cables.
-Tested both versions of drivekey on DMS,D2A,D2B,D2C, D2C2, D2E. The problem isnít wii version related.
Both the chips play backups without any problems!
So this is why there are mixed reports about drivekeys running originals and some not running them.
There are actually two versions of the drivekey on the market.
It has been officially confirmed that:
-The problem is not related to the size of the oscillator
-The problem only occurs on Wii's with a silver ribbon cable
- Drivekeys with this problem can only be identified by the 'W3' marking on the Diode ( It is NOT related to connectors or oscillators)
For everbody that doesn't want to exchange their drivekey:
- Removing the Diode and bridging the points with solder will make the drivekey work normal on silver ribbon cable wii's (tested extensively).
(Important: When you remove the diode you have to unplug the drivekey from the Wii if you want to do an JTAG update)
Last edited by ModderMan; 03-10-2009 at 03:55 PM.
I confirm your stats, I have the left chip and can't play original game. I need to return my chip. I also checked flat cable's continuity and everything is fine!
Thanks console specialist for your inputs.
So far so good... I have the right one and original are working fine..
I have the one on the right and I can play originals but still am having problems playing backups
theoretically, lock flatcable connectors work better in terms of continuity.
are the large and small oscillator of same frequency ?
any revision mark on the module/Actel chip for recognition ?
"Actel chip is totally the same", meaning that the codes are identical, or just the ASIC capacity between the modules ? two bad if no revision identity after programming.
plz clarify. thx.
Thankyou CS,it was nice of u to take the time to do this and let us know the results,cheers.
Any ideas if there will be a update to correct the issue? Also if you bypass the drivekey in the menu will it play originals then or does it still not allow them to work until it's totally unhooked?
I'd like to know too! atm the left hand side pic from above can't read original discs.. hopefully a drivekey firmware update can fix this?