Thread: d2pro9 V3 w/ wii clip on D2E drive issues

I'm surprised that the CLK jumper was not already shorted/bridged. For D2E it should be is my understanding. You should send email to Canadamods for clarifiaction, they will help you out I'm sure.

Sorry, the CLK pins are shorted. I have sent some email to canadamods, I got an automated reply saying that they've got heavy email volume. I was hoping someone here might know. I have seen the canadamods people post on this forum and I was hoping that they might see it as well.

So if the clk pins are shorted, should I remove the short and see if that does anything? Also, I've got a loop of wire connecting point 'c' to the point 'c' on the wii-clip. I thought I read that this sometimes solves the inching problem on the D2C2 chips. I guess it adds just enough resistance to the chip, but I'm not quite sure what that pin does.

Any ideas?

Check to make sure the d29pro has the blue sticker on the bottom not the green.
Check to make sure the wii-clip is genuine not a clone as there are known problems - turn it upside down and make sure there is writing inside the socket clip as well as on top.
Red light only - normally means bad clip or the clip has bent pins on the drive chip and is loose.

The clip is genuine. The D2Pro9 has a blue sticker that has a D2E and a check mark. I'll check the pins and hope to hear back from the canadamods people before I do any solder work.

is the de-soldering the ck pins and attaching the J pin used for the D2E chip? I had only read that in reference to the D2C2 chips.

To make matters more confusing there was a defective batch of genuine clips sent out from Wii-clip.
My understanding is that the red light on is showing something is not connected correctly, the CLK jumper shouldnt affect the red light staying on.
The clip should really be pressed on firmly - on the d2c's it clicks on. The d2e's seem to be smaller (may be deliberate) and never seems to feel right - which is why I always solder.
The sequence is power on the wii, red light comes on for about 1/2 second and off, blue light flashes. When a backup disc is being read, blue light flashes, when a genuine disc is being read, blue light stays off.
The point C problem is to do with current draw from the actel causing inching/eject issues - not red light issues.

What exactly does the unbridging of the ck pin do? What clock pins is it connecting currently? And what is the "J" point doing when it gets connected directly to the board? Why does it not work correctly sometimes when it's just connected via the wii clip?

Originally Posted by modchip [Only Registered Members May View Links| Click here to register]

To make matters more confusing there was a defective batch of genuine clips sent out from Wii-clip.
My understanding is that the red light on is showing something is not connected correctly, the CLK jumper shouldnt affect the red light staying on.
The clip should really be pressed on firmly - on the d2c's it clicks on. The d2e's seem to be smaller (may be deliberate) and never seems to feel right - which is why I always solder.
The sequence is power on the wii, red light comes on for about 1/2 second and off, blue light flashes. When a backup disc is being read, blue light flashes, when a genuine disc is being read, blue light stays off.
The point C problem is to do with current draw from the actel causing inching/eject issues - not red light issues.

k.. yes this does make things confusing. I got a reply from Canadamods as well yesterday and they gave me a RMA and noted that they will send me a V2 version... Is this the best route? Is this because of the bad Wii Clip? My understanding is that the V3 has updated software not released to general public and going backwards to a V2 makes sense? any body has comments what I should do.. Should I just attempt to solder the J joint?

thanks