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Old 08-23-2008, 07:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question d2pro9 V3 w/ wii clip on D2E drive issues

Guys, I tried looking through the posts for this but I can't find anything so I thought I'd just ask.

I just bought a Wii and it's got a D2E chip on it. I ordered a d2pro9 v3 pre-soldered to a wii clip from canadamods. It arrived today and I installed the clip.

When I turn on the Wii, I get a solid red light on the d2pro9 chip and the wii drive will not accept any disks. The Wii turns on, but just will not accept disks.

I've not soldered the clk point nor tried anything with the j points, but I can't find any real instruction on whether I should try that or not. I read a lot of people who have "inching" problems or clicking noises, but all the drive lock issues seem to be on other chips.

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-23-2008, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm surprised that the CLK jumper was not already shorted/bridged. For D2E it should be is my understanding. You should send email to Canadamods for clarifiaction, they will help you out I'm sure.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry, the CLK pins are shorted. I have sent some email to canadamods, I got an automated reply saying that they've got heavy email volume. I was hoping someone here might know. I have seen the canadamods people post on this forum and I was hoping that they might see it as well.

So if the clk pins are shorted, should I remove the short and see if that does anything? Also, I've got a loop of wire connecting point 'c' to the point 'c' on the wii-clip. I thought I read that this sometimes solves the inching problem on the D2C2 chips. I guess it adds just enough resistance to the chip, but I'm not quite sure what that pin does.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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What you need to do is unbridge the CK point and solder the J wire from the clip to the point on the board. We have tested the C wire solution and this is not a 100% fix for the problems with the clips.

Last edited by n1tro; 08-24-2008 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 08-24-2008, 09:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Check to make sure the d29pro has the blue sticker on the bottom not the green.
Check to make sure the wii-clip is genuine not a clone as there are known problems - turn it upside down and make sure there is writing inside the socket clip as well as on top.
Red light only - normally means bad clip or the clip has bent pins on the drive chip and is loose.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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The clip is genuine. The D2Pro9 has a blue sticker that has a D2E and a check mark. I'll check the pins and hope to hear back from the canadamods people before I do any solder work.

is the de-soldering the ck pins and attaching the J pin used for the D2E chip? I had only read that in reference to the D2C2 chips.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:18 AM   #7 (permalink)
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To make matters more confusing there was a defective batch of genuine clips sent out from Wii-clip.
My understanding is that the red light on is showing something is not connected correctly, the CLK jumper shouldnt affect the red light staying on.
The clip should really be pressed on firmly - on the d2c's it clicks on. The d2e's seem to be smaller (may be deliberate) and never seems to feel right - which is why I always solder.
The sequence is power on the wii, red light comes on for about 1/2 second and off, blue light flashes. When a backup disc is being read, blue light flashes, when a genuine disc is being read, blue light stays off.
The point C problem is to do with current draw from the actel causing inching/eject issues - not red light issues.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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What exactly does the unbridging of the ck pin do? What clock pins is it connecting currently? And what is the "J" point doing when it gets connected directly to the board? Why does it not work correctly sometimes when it's just connected via the wii clip?
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modchip View Post
To make matters more confusing there was a defective batch of genuine clips sent out from Wii-clip.
My understanding is that the red light on is showing something is not connected correctly, the CLK jumper shouldnt affect the red light staying on.
The clip should really be pressed on firmly - on the d2c's it clicks on. The d2e's seem to be smaller (may be deliberate) and never seems to feel right - which is why I always solder.
The sequence is power on the wii, red light comes on for about 1/2 second and off, blue light flashes. When a backup disc is being read, blue light flashes, when a genuine disc is being read, blue light stays off.
The point C problem is to do with current draw from the actel causing inching/eject issues - not red light issues.
k.. yes this does make things confusing. I got a reply from Canadamods as well yesterday and they gave me a RMA and noted that they will send me a V2 version... Is this the best route? Is this because of the bad Wii Clip? My understanding is that the V3 has updated software not released to general public and going backwards to a V2 makes sense? any body has comments what I should do.. Should I just attempt to solder the J joint?

thanks
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Old 08-24-2008, 12:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My understanding is that the V2 works much better on the D2C and the V3 was fixes/updates more for the D2E.
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