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2 lines on D2C chip and "old" PCB -> NEW D2C2
I bought three consoles in the Netherlands and they all have 2 lines on the chip, first line is GC2-D2C and second line is a number.
The other chip is labelled GC2-D1A and they don't have "APCB D3 94V-0" written on the PCB. So I thought I was lucky and had the "old" D2C drive.
When I proceeded to install a D2CKey (with Wii Clip, all connections verified by measuring through alternative solder points), it just wouldn't work. The console turns on and originals play fine. Blue light flashes when reading from disc, but the red light never turns on and backups don't work.
Installing an old version D2Pro with 15 wires gave almost the same behaviour as with the D2CKey. Installing it with 9 wires (so... not real time patching, but code injection) caused the drive's disc insertion motors to continuously start and stop with 2 second intervals.
A D2Pro9 v2 worked flawlessly! So it turned out to be a D2C2 drive!
The only difference I could notice between this drive and any of the "old" D2C drives was the metal clip on top of the drive, right above the plastic spindle, with the number "2" embossed in it.
So far all drives that had this clip (with or without the "2") have turned out to be D2C2 drives and in the beginning all these drives also had D2C chips with only one line.
Long story short:
If your D2C chip has two lines and the PCB does not have "APCB D3 94V-0" on it then it can still be a D2C2. Always look for the metal clip above the spindle on top of the drive. This metal clip has been a better indicator for me than than looking at the chip or PCB.
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